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Our little home by the sea

We both slept well despite it being a little windy. I woke to see the sunrise behind us and the sky light up with that same old fantastic array of colours. If ever there was an appropriate use for the Asia “same same but different” phrase it has to be for sunrises and sunsets. We have seen some pretty amazing ones on our trip and on other holidays and I never tire of looking at them. I suppose that is the romantic strain in me. The sounds of a tug tat work in the harbour made me look out the side of the tent to see a large container ship being towed out to sea. What it carried and where it was off to I have no idea but I hope it was something exciting on both fronts.

Having had the benefit of an electric hook up, I think the first that has worked in Namibia we left the fridge plugged in overnight to make sure things got well and truly chilled. Unfortunately one of had knocked the dial from chill to freeze so when we started to get bits out for breakfast we had frozen milk, juice, butter, everything apart from the alcohol and the chilli sauce had frozen up. I wasn’t really sure what had happened to the eggs we had in there but knew we would soon find out when we cracked them to eat.

Today we wanted to get out to see the Kolmanskop Diamond Mine. A quick look in our Lonely Planet confirmed that we wouldn’t make the first tour of the day but that we could make the second one as long as we didn’t hang around too much. I left Stef munching away on his breakfast and hit the showers so that I could pack up while he showered. We made it down into town and saw a very different place to the one we had arrived at last night. Being Saturday the shops all shut at about 1:00am and it was as if everyone from the surrounding area had come into town to do their shopping. There were long queues at all the ATM’s with people getting their weekend cash and then heading for the Spar to do their shopping.

I jumped out of the truck and went to get our Kolmanskop passes while Stef cruised around looking for somewhere to park. We had time to make a quick stop at the supermarket to get supplied in for tonight, not the Spar or the other chain shop in town but a small “corner shop” type supermarket at the top end of the street. It was called the Portuguese Supermarket but there was absolutely nothing Portuguese about it. I’d hoped to pick up a few little delicacies but came out with the staples of sausages, water and wood for a fire.

Kolmanskop was well worth the visit and I would recommend it to anyone who happened to find themselves in the Luderitz area. I think you can probably wander around the site on your own but it is worth booking onto their tour just to get some background insight into the mine. Kolmanskop was named after a trader who plied the route between Luderitz and Keetmanshoop using his oxen drawn cart. One day he got stuck in a sand drift and had to abandon his cart. The sand dunes soon claimed most of it for their own so that only part of it was still visible. This is why the area and the village got the name of Kolmanskop which means Kolman’s Head.

Germany, which pretty much owned much of Namibia at the end of the nineteenth century had sent some geologists to this part of the country to conduct a major geological survey. Their work revealed nothing of interest or of value so whether they actually came to Kolmanskop is unclear. In the early 1900’s a railway was being laid between Luderitz and Aus, overseen by a German August Stauch. Stauch had asked his employees to tell him if they found any stones that were unusual and to bring them to him. One day Zacharias Lewala found a shiny stone and as requested took it to Stauch who recognised it as a diamond. As the German geological team had turn up nothing of interest in this area belief in the find was initially low. A different team of geologists came to Luderitz and they confirmed that it was a diamond.

Stauch applied for, and got, a prospecting licence and in turn this set off a mini diamond rush with many people coming to this area hoping to make their fortune. In time the German Government decide to curtail the rush and set up what it still known today as the Sperrgebiet, a vast tract of land that is a no-go area unless you are there on business from the mining company that now owns the land.

The diamond prospecting area of Kolmanskop soon grew into a small town in its own right, with initially fairly basic wooden huts being replaced in time by brick buildings. Ironically, considering the village was built on the edge of a sand dune, they had to import the sand for the bricks from Germany because the local sand had a too high salt content for it to be effectively used for house building. Today the village is a semi ghost town. It was finally abandoned in 1956 and the dunes have taken over. Many of the buildings are now totally lost to the sand but a fair few still remain.

Kolmanskop, a mining ghost town, once a wealthy diamond mining settlement

Our tour started in the recreation hall which people still hire out for weddings and other big celebrations. This was a relatively late addition to the village and served as the central place to gather for church services or for entertainment. The latest films were flown in from Germany once a month and the hall apparently had great acoustics. Turn of the century gym equipment is still housed here – vaults, spring boards and the like – which seemed to have been a popular way to pass the time. Down at ground level is a two lane skittle alley, also a very popular pastime with the German managerial and technical staff who came out here to supervise the mine. This too can be hired for about £300 per night, a high price by local standards but people do it.

From the main hall we made our way to the ice factory, one of many advanced technological features of the mine village. Being in the middle of a sand dune, water was hard to come by and a precious commodity but ice was also needed to keep life cool. Water was pumped to Kolmanskop from Elizabeth Bay, another mining village further down and along the coast. This salt water was placed in huge tanks into which long rectangular moulds holding fresh water were suspended. CO2 was then piped into the vat to cool the sea water and create ice in the fresh water.

Next to the ice factory was the butchers shop. The cold sea water from the ice factory was also used to chill the butchers store room and a vent from here led into the butchers shop so that the cold air from the store room could in effect be used as air conditioning in the shop. The walls to the butchers store were very thick to ensure that the meat lasted as long as possible. The butcher himself had come out from Germany hoping to make his fortune in diamonds but he knew little about precious stones so he reverted back to what he knew well – meat. He still made his fortune here and moved back to Germany and carried on as a successful man in the butchery trade. The museum knows this because his son came and visited the mine and told them that extra snippet of history.

The store keeper’s house has been restored not with the original furniture and furnishings but with other period pieces from the time. The store was run by a woman, also unusual for this period in time, and she too made her fortune at Kolmanskop. She had a standing weekly order of goods and supplies that would be shipped in from Germany. The people at Kolmanskop, or rather the European settlers, had the best of everything – furniture, clothes, food etc – the best that money could buy. Their houses were well furnished and in the period after the village was deserted the local people pillaged everything of value from their houses. We later wandered around some of them and floorboards, doors, electricals switches, light fittings - everything had been taken.

We were able to walk around the refurbished store keepers house. The main room was laid out as a dining area and off to the side was the desk she used to send and process all her orders with the original ledger recording them still on display. At the back was the kitchen with the obligatory diamond weighing scales. A small fridge stood to one side. Each family was given a block of ice per day and most of this was used to keep the fridge cool. The ice was placed into the top with the perishable items on a shelf below. The next layer down was a bowl to catch the molten ice water. As water was such a precious commodity not a drop was wasted. The house also had two bedrooms, both pretty spartan but in a lot of ways reminiscent of Green Gables in PEI, Canada.

Today the shopkeepers store acts as a small museum about the mine. The original counter is still there running around three sides of the shop and in one corner is a small office which the store keeper must have used during the day. Around the walls are photos and information panels explaining about the mines history with some pretty interesting photos. One of the most incredible was a photo of people mining by night. The area was so rich with diamonds that they were literally just lying on the surface of the sand waiting to be picked up. Moonlight was the best light to see them by and one photo shows a string of miners all crawling along the sand on hands and feet just picking up the diamonds that were highlighted by the moon. Inevitably theft was a problem so people generally were only allowed to work a two year contract so that they didn’t learn too much about the mine and its practices. Each worker was isolated before their employment ended to ensure that any diamonds they had chosen to smuggle had worked their way through their system before they left the mine. Knowing that these checks happened later generations would cut the skin on their heads and bury diamonds below their scalp to try and smuggle them out. Another photo showed two women sifting what you initially think is a bowl of flour but it is in fact a bowl full of diamonds.

The shop counter houses different bits and pieces of machinery and equipment used by the miners and their families. It also has a standard contract of employment. The miners had to work a 54 hour week, long by current standards. There was also a whole complex tariff of wages and benefits. Each family living here was entitled to a daily quote of ice, bread, meat and a few other basic essentials. Anything more had to be bought at the store. Most people got electricity thrown in and a rationed supply of water. Extra water could be bought but it was so expensive most just opted for beer instead. It was delivered to each family in the morning using a small electric train that ran round the village. The village had its own power station and this, the train and the ice factory were just some of the leading edge technological innovations that this diamond village benefited from. Men who came here to work brining their families with them soon sent their families home because life in the bachelor’s blocks was such good fun.

After the tour we were free to wander around the village on our own. It was a shame we hadn’t got here earlier because it was one of those places that we could have both spent hours in. We started at the hospital, again leading edge and able to accommodate more than 250 patients at any one time. This was a high percentage of the mine population but people from the nearby villages would also come to the mine hospital if they were ill. The hospital was very eerie but you could picture it in its heyday. It was a long building with rooms leading off to right, generally small rooms, and left, larger rooms which probably housed around 6 patients each. Some rooms had tiled floors (operating theatres perhaps?) but most had wooden floors. Of those on the right of the building quite a high proportion were now full of sand as the dunes have crept every closer to the village. One room had a solitary loo still plumbed in to the wall but totally surrounded by sand. People had pilfered so much that even the electrics for the “help” button board at the nurses station was all long gone.

From the hospital we went to the doctors house. Two doctors were based at Kolmanskop and they shared a large single storied building. Here evidence of the “house robbers” was all too evident as floor boards, doors and skirting boards were missing. No fixtures and fittings were left in situ at all. As with the hospital, and the other houses we visited, the dunes were gradually creeping in. It was quite a sad sight to see because you could picture the life and vitality that would have once occupied these barren walls.

Time wasn’t on our side so we picked just a couple of the other buildings to visit. The first was the Quartermasters house which, although long abandoned, very much had the feel that it had been a family home. We have nothing to base this feeling on except the proportions and layout of the rooms. Our final visit was to the mine manager’s house. This was, as you would expect, the largest house in the village and it has been partially restored. The rooms are laid out around a central hallway and they are large and spacious. It is a house that I could quite happily pick up and put in another part of the world but Stef wasn’t quite so sold on it.

As we made our way back to the main communal room we both looked at the skies above that were darkening and threatening heavy rain. It created quite an eerie backdrop for our last view back at Kolmanskop as we headed back to Luderitz. With the afternoon still to play with we decided to head out and around the Luderitz peninsula. The roads here were mostly gravel again and with the rain it was uncertain what conditions we would find them in. Our first stop was at the old whaling station in Shearwater bay. Here there is a small beach and a few rusty buildings that were once the station. It was pretty wild and windy and we didn’t stay long. AS we left, a small convoy of 4x4’s was heading to the beach each filled with people in their twenties obviously off for an afternoon of fun at the beach, despite the weather.

Our next stop was the lighthouse at Diaz point. From here you are meant to be able to see penguins at the nearby Halifax Island but we saw none. The only sign of life was a local family who had come here for an afternoon picnic and they definitely did not want to be disturbed. We headed on to Halifax Point where we came across not penguins but some South Africans who were well and truly pickled although it was only early afternoon.

Heading further south we took a turn which led us off to a picnic spot. It was not where we wanted to go and there were a couple of pretty hairy rocks hills to manoeuvre across as well. One was so bad that it was hard to see on the way back which was it was that we had come. Thankfully we had the 4x4 just in case, although we didn’t need it. We headed down to Grosse Bucht (Big Bay) where there is a relatively long sandy beach. Normally you can see flamingos here but today all there was to see was another couple in their car. Lonely Planet talks about a picturesque shipwreck on the beach. I’m not sure if we saw the same one but what we saw I wouldn’t really call it picturesque.

We finally made our way back into town, leaving the barren and soulless peninsula behind us. We drove down to have a look at the Nest Hotel, which I think was the best place in town. It looked pretty decent and I kept it in mind as a possible bolt hole if the storm that had been threatening all day finally hit home. Heading back into town we passed a small church which looked like a service was going on. The road then led into a small street of very colourful old Germanic buildings. With our petrol running low we went on the hunt for a refill, successfully finding a Caltex service station but not finding an open shop to top up our beer supplies (also low). Instead we made our way to the waterfront complex, a small collection of shops with a nice café overlooking a bit of a boardwalk.

Knocking off for the day

Hunger had set in so we ended up sharing a pizza rather than having just a drink. It was very tasty, full of garlic, but much bigger than either of us had expected. The wedding we had guessed at earlier soon turned up at the café. The bride must work here because she got a very warm welcome and lots of hugs from the staff but she and her husband, both equally on the cuddly side soon disappeared.

Full of pizza we headed back to the campsite and got ready for the night. We lit a fire but both decided that more food was not on our agenda for today. Instead we just sat and watched the sun set and the storm start to roll in. The camp guard came round doing his rounds, angling for a bit of a freebie handout of anything that was going. He seemed quite friendly but it was unnerving that he was carrying a rifle around with him and that his finger was on the trigger. He finally got bored with our company, or realise that we weren’t about to give him a freebie and moved on to other people.

As we sat the lightning lit up the sky in front of us. Last night we had seen what looked like either an oil rig or a big tanker out at sea. Our trip to Kolmanskop today confirmed that it was actually an off shore diamond mine. The lights were bright against the ever darkening night sky, only surpassed by the odd flashed of lightning. As the storm came closer and closer we made a judgement call about what to do for the rest of the night. On the one hand it was way too early to go to bed but neither of us wanted to get caught in a storm. One of the downsides of this type of camping is that if the weather is bad you have nowhere to pass the time. If we had a tent on the ground we could at least have some awning to take shelter in but that option was not open to us. So, by 7:30 we had both chickened out and headed for bed, knowing that we probably had a long and wet night ahead of us.

Weird wired world, calling home on the mobile from empty southern Namibia

Oh what a night. What is normally a windy campsite at Luderitz was well and truly battered last night. We had gone to bed early so that at least we weren’t soaked by the rain getting into the tent. From our bed we watched the storm getting closer and closer until at last we had to close the flap by our heads to stop the rain coming in. The whole night was a mix of periods of good deep sleep interspersed with periods where we were both wide awake while the tent got battered and blown by high winds and drenched by the rain.

Although deep down I knew it wouldn’t happen there were quite a few times when I was braced for the tent being blown off the top of the truck the wind was that strong. Ironically, even though we had both had an interrupted nights sleep we both woke feeling pretty refreshed but desperately in need of heading to the washrooms to relieve very full bladders. It was still very windy in the morning and there was a definite feeling about the campsite of “that was a pretty hairy night”. The security guards from the camp were also doing the rounds checking that everyone was OK, not something I recall them doing yesterday.

We got ourselves up and packed, stowing the tent still wet pretty quickly as rain filled clouds were still lingering overhead. Today marks the end in some ways of our time in Namibia as we start our trek back up to Windhoek. It’s a long drive and more than we will achieve in a day but we set off just wanting to see how far we would get. Both of us are glad we came to Luderitz. It’s somewhere that really has nothing to it in some ways other than Kolmanskop but in other ways that is exactly the attraction of the place and the reason why we came. German influences are present throughout the town but unlike Swakopmund it doesn’t seem to be as popular.

Leaving Luderitz behind us set off back on the B4, glad that for this final long trip we would be on tarmac all the way. Ostriches lined the route as we again drove along an endless road through more vast open spaces. The sky was still full of clouds and we were glad we had stopped the day before yesterday at the old train station. Shortly after the station we turned off left to go and see the feral desert horses, domestic animals that now live in the wild. There are various different theories about how the horses came to be here. They range from the horses being left behind by German cavalry soldiers to them being shipwrecked and many other theories in between.

The horses survive around one small pan which is now artificially fed by a borehole. They only drink every 72 hours so there is no guarantee that you will see them but we were lucky. A group of about 30 horses were gathered around the pan. I had expected to see something really different but they were actually no different to non-feral horses. Most of them were a really beautiful warm deep brown colour. One had white splashes on its flanks, almost as if someone had tipped out a can of paint over it.

We left the horses behind and headed back onto the B4. When we passed the junction with the C13 we cheered again at the joy of tarmac. We could take a shorter route to go to Windhoek by going back up the C13 but neither of us fancied that. As it is Easter Sunday we stopped a couple of hours later in the middle of absolutely nowhere to call home. Amazingly we had reception on our mobiles. It was a really strange experience to stand talking to family when we were in the middle of a vast open Namibian landscape. It made me really yearn for getting home, which we will do in just five short weeks time, but there’s still loads left to see and do before we get onto that final plane.

The B4 takes you through spectacular countryside. It’s vast and open and I know that if you’ve read all of our other Namibia pages you’ll think “I’ve heard that before” but this was something else. We would crest hills and look ahead just staggered by the size and expanse of what was stretching out ahead of us. In Argentina and Chile we had seen vast openness but they didn’t have a patch on what we’ve seen here. It really is just massive massive massive open spaces stretching away into nowhere. Stunning (but boring on the driving front!).

We kept on going, stopping briefly if we needed fuel or to relieve bladders (all that squatting practice in Asia really paying benefits for me in the open – the only concern being whether that rare car would just happen to come along at the most inopportune moment). Finally we made it to Keetmanshoop and carried on out the other side. Just north of Keetmanshoop we made a short detour to go and see a quiver tree forest, the quiver tree is an unusual specimen with an almost cactus like crown of branches and leaves. In fact it is not a tree but an aloe plant, Aloe Dichotoma. We stopped at what we though was the only quiver tree forest around, later passing another couple on the way to Windhoek.

Kokerboom (quiver tree) forest
20060416_P_0513 adj
Impressive cheetah

The people who own/run this one are pretty canny. They have set up a campsite next to the forest so if you want to you can stay overnight. They were interesting to see but not that great. A little further up the road they had another plot of land that they have also opened up to tourists, this one called the giants playground. It was impressive scenery with lots of different stacks of rocks dotted around the landscape. I still think they were a bit cheeky getting people to pay to walk around it though.

Before heading back to Keetmanshoop we did a quick detour back to the office of the farm who owned the forest. They have a few cheetahs on their land and we wanted to check where we might have a chance of seeing them. The lady there told us it was highly unlikely we’d see them unless we waited for the feeding time at around 4:00pm. That was too late for us so we started to head out but as we turned around the car park we saw a couple in a small enclosure. Like lions we’ve seen in captivity they were either totally zonked out or just pacing up and down. Every now and again the one doing the pacing would suddenly turn tail and jump up into the nearby tree. They were beautiful and powerful creatures and, despite it messing up our photos, I was glad for the wire fence that separated us from them.

We headed down into Keetmanshoop to fill up with petrol. As it was Sunday, the town was totally quiet so we didn’t linger. As usual time wasn’t really on our side and we still wanted to head a further 220ish km further north before we stopped for the night. Our target was to make it to the Hardap Recreation Resort just north of Mariental. We made it there a little after 5:30pm knowing that the NWR parks office would shut at sundown at 6:00pm. We checked in to the campsite, got a map of the sites and were told we could pick any site that was available. The skies were darkening overhead and as we toured the campsites a few spots of rain started to come down. The campsites were pretty soulless affairs with no character at all. There were braai’s and eating tables but they were all gathered together in a central point and were not necessarily near to where you would park.

I looked at the sky time after time and finally said to Stef that if it was going to be another stormy night like last night I would prefer to see if they had a bungalow available. We made it back to the NWR office just as they were packing up for the night but in time to swap our campsite for a bungalow. I had expected something pretty basic and small for two people but our bungalow could sleep four people in beds and countless more on the floor. It was a little dated in its décor and a little shabby in places but it was a really comfy home from home. We pulled our bags and food out of the back of the truck and started to make ourselves at home.

It had been a pretty long day on the road and neither of us really felt like cooking although we still have food for a braai with us. We decided to head down to the park restaurant for a drink which in some ways was a fatal move because as soon as we were there we decided to eat there as well. We had a pretty tasty meal and were soon back in our cabin. I was feeling a degree or two under and nodded off pretty soon on a very comfy settee while Stef sat and penned wise words in his diary. He woke me up a few hours later to go to bed.

Southern African brands: Knorr pap mix, KOO hot'n'spicy chakalaka, farm kudu droewors and Tafel lager
Heading back into the tropics (Stef's star sign)
Wet in Windhoek

During the night I had heard a storm raging outside but from the sounds of it compared to what we had experienced at Luderitz last night it was a mere puff of wind. Even so I was glad that we were in four walls and I had a really good night’s sleep. Having missed out on our braai and campfire last night because it was too wet, and we were too tired, we decided to at least light a fire this morning. While Stef got the logs going outside I got the sausages going inside on the cooker. Three of the six of our eggs that had been frozen a few nights ago looked well enough to be eaten and along with a grilled tomato they contributed to a mega feast of a breakfast.

We ate outside, enjoying the view across the reservoir which is created by the Hardap dam. The area is popular for fishing and water sports and I had heard the fishermen getting up and out much earlier this morning. We just opted for a lazy breakfast knowing that what we didn’t eat would either get thrown away or left for the cleaners if they wanted it. It took us a while to pack up, making the transition from dusty 4x4 back to hotel style living but before long we were back on the road and heading up to Windhoek for the last time.

More spectacular views greeted us on the way to Windhoek. Every time we thought we had seen the biggest view we could ever see another one came our way. It really is a stunning place to come to unless you like being crammed into a city with thousands of other people. Rain threatened pretty much all the way but held off while we stopped again for more photos at the Tropic of Capricorn. Here we finally used our jerry cans of fuel that we have carried around with us for the last few weeks, glad that we hadn’t had t use them. It did rain on our way back though and it was still drizzling as we made it back to Windhoek. We stopped briefly at the Maerua Mall to check what was on at the cinema to see if it was worth coming here tonight but there wasn’t a film that we both wanted to see. In the last few weeks the new wing of the mall has opened up bringing a whole new selection of stores to the people of Windhoek.

We then made our way back to Pension Moni where again we were met with a friendly welcome from Marita. We had the same room as last time and were soon ensconced in familiar surroundings with all of our stuff taken out of the back of the truck. No more scrabbling around in the back for me thank you very much. As with the last time we were here, within about twenty minutes of us getting into our room the heavens opened and heavy rain came down.

Later in the afternoon we had to take our 4x4 back to Camping Car Hire. It has been a great way to travel around the country but we have both added to a list of improvements to the current design that we would make to give an easier camping experience. CCH were friendly and efficient as ever, checking that all was OK with the car and they we had returned everything intact. They dropped us back of at the Moni, opting not to cross the small stream that Stef had driven through to get here but taking a slightly longer route.

We spent the rest of the afternoon just chilling out and catching up on diaries. Knowing it was Easter Monday, a holiday day, we knew that everything would be shut in town including options for somewhere to go to eat. Our penultimate night in Windhoek was therefore a repeat of our first night and we ordered take out pizza and had a night in in front of the telly. Great.

Spurs restaurant, a quiet day

We were slow to get going this morning, both knowing that we were in for probably the most boring admin day we have had in a while. We’d spent time this morning running through what we would like to see and do in South Africa. Time is now very tight as we only have just under five weeks to go. In some ways I regret spending so much time in Asia but then we experienced and saw so much there that it was the right thing to do. I just wish we could expand time somehow so that we had some more weeks spare for Africa. The upshot was that we decided the few days it would take to detour to Maputo in Mozambique were days we didn’t have spare so we needed to cancel those flight bookings.

Our first stop for the day was the Maerua Mall to go and pick up our plane tickets. It was one of those necessary evil tasks. We both knew we had to go but neither of us relished having to sit and spend another hour watching Eugene shuffle bits of paper backwards and forwards while not really achieving a lot. In some ways though his slightly cranky working style came to be a benefit. He had blocked seats for us on the Maputo flight but had not yet booked them and issued the tickets so at least we lost no money there. For our flights to Johannesburg he hadn’t actually done anything other than call the local BA office. He sent us in their direction which was back into the centre of town.

Before we left Eugene he mumbled something about having chatted it thought with so and so who was on holiday this week but that the other people at the office would know. We hopped in a taxi and soon found the office tucked away on the eleventh floor of the Sanlam building. There we were “helped” by the rudest woman either of us has come across in years. She sat there and told us that what we had been told would happen couldn’t but barked it out at us across the desk. We were stunned and exchanged looks of “what the hell is going on here”. Even the other woman in the office looked pretty stunned and she stepped in a couple of times to smooth things over.

Even though they are a BA office for some reason they cannot cope with handling changes to Round the World tickets. Each time we have made changes, the whole batch of tickets has to be reissued which has actually turned out to be a major pain in the butt, especially as the cost of doing so has now been increased from US$75 to US$125 per change per person. So much for the ease of making changes that you get as part of the marketing hype. She told us that it was very busy in the office, we were the only people there, and that we would have to leave the tickets with them and come back in the morning. Stunned again we said we didn’t have time to do that but we had been told the flight coupons would be amended without the need to reissue all the others. In the end they did simply stick a sticker on our flight coupon to confirm the change of routing. The benefit was that we didn’t have to pay the usual admin charge.

From BA we went back to the internet café we had found on our last trip to Windhoek and holed up for pretty much the rest of the afternoon until they finally kicked us out at 6:30pm. We had been there so long they took pity on us and gave us a large discount on the normal rate which was very much appreciated. The afternoon was spent checking and replying to mail and uploading more photos interspersed with the odd sortie to get coffee or just to stretch our legs.

In the evening we headed back to the steak house we had gone to on our first Sunday. Even though it was cool we sat outside on the balcony, listening to the woman behind us giving the man she was with a bit of a hard time. Stef’s steak was good as was my chicken although it came smothered in cheese sauce which make it a bit on the rich side. We asked them to call us a taxi to get back to the hotel which seemed to take ages to arrive but before long we were back at Pension Moni and tucked up in bed.